Showing posts sorted by relevance for query blog. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query blog. Sort by date Show all posts

Jan 13, 2013

How To Write Articles For Success

Anyone can write for the internet. If you can talk, then you can write. The only thing that you need to understand when writing articles online is how people perceive them. If you have ever written for newspapers or magazines, for instance, you know you should be focusing on the people who read you, and both of those even have varieties.


It’s not necessary to write like a scholar in order to get a readership. You only need to create articles that are short and concise and that provide information others can use. You will soon learn about some article writing techniques that you can use to write content that’s of good quality.

The easiest thing to do when you approach writing is to just allow your thoughts to come out no matter what they look like – editing will fix them up. Never stop or worry about what it looks like, you can always go back and edit everything. When you’re working on your first draft, it is extremely important that you turn OFF the internal editor. For the first draft, if you edit at all it will only slow you down. After that, then you will take care of mistakes, proof reading, editing, etc.

The next thing to keep in mind is that you need to organize your article. People who are reading content on the web don’t have much time and usually scan through articles to get a gist of it first before they actually read it. Bullet points will serve nicely in this position due to the fact that readers can get the information in an easily comprehendible way.

This also makes it easy for the reader to digest the information that you’re passing on. An article that’s written in huge blocks will not do as well because readers may get lost.

As an article writer you should always pick a relevant topic for your articles. You’ll need to do research on your market so you know what is important to them. If you fail to do that, then the expected and natural result will be no one will read your articles. Always create an outline based on research, and then focus on one topic in your article. You have to decide what is important to your market, but try to add variety to maintain interest.

To write great articles, you need to put in the effort required.

Keep your articles understandable and let the reader know right away what the article’s about. A reader is going to want extra space between chunks of text so that reading it is easier. And finally, your articles should be created using simple language. Keep them simple and to the point. Give away quality info and at the same time hold something back so that the reader visits your site or blog.

May 28, 2013

Exploring D-Link DIR-320 networks with Oleg's firmware or what are vlan0, vlan1, eth0, eth1, br0?

What is the device?

It's a D-Link wireless router (4MB flash, 32MB RAM and processor Broadcom 240 MHz) with almost the same configuration as ASUS WL500g Premium (8MB flash, 32MB RAM and processor Broadcom 266MHz), but costs much lower.


Why do I need this wireless router?

Because I want to build a wireless home network with Internet connection (PPPoE) for laptop, netbook (HP 2133) and a telephone (Nokia E63), which supports Wi-Fi. I need the USB port for printing, and in the future ---scanning, USB harddisks, networked web camera, 3G or WiM modems etc.

What is the Oleg's firmware?

It's Linux-based custom firmware for ASUS WL-500gx/WL-550gE/WL-500gp/WL-500W/WL-320gE/WL-320gP/WL-330gE/WL-500gp V2/WL-520gU. There isn't much thing to do with the manufacture's firmware. Instruction of installation (flashing) of the Oleg's firmware on DIR-320 can be found in my blog (in English) or wl500g.info (in Russia).

What are there inside the router with Oleg's firmware?

After flashing the device with Oleg's firmware, you can configure Internet connection, Wireless, etc by web brower interface. Don't forget to turn on SSH server (dropbear). After that login and explore:

$ ifconfig
br0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 00:90:4C:C0:00:00
inet addr:192.168.1.1 Bcast:192.168.1.255 Mask:255.255.255.0
UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1
RX packets:1122700 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:1113191 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:0
RX bytes:367622803 (350.5 MiB) TX bytes:586264798 (559.1 MiB)

eth0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 00:90:4C:C0:00:00
UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1
RX packets:1393411 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:1113648 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000
RX bytes:935119976 (891.7 MiB) TX bytes:655661617 (625.2 MiB)
Interrupt:4 Base address:0x1000

eth1 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 00:90:4C:C1:00:00
UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1
RX packets:619887 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:19671
TX packets:683607 errors:122 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000
RX bytes:44888939 (42.8 MiB) TX bytes:305171776 (291.0 MiB)
Interrupt:13 Base address:0x5000

lo Link encap:Local Loopback
inet addr:127.0.0.1 Mask:255.0.0.0
UP LOOPBACK RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:16436 Metric:1
RX packets:40152 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:40152 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:0
RX bytes:3718052 (3.5 MiB) TX bytes:3718052 (3.5 MiB)

ppp0 Link encap:Point-to-Point Protocol
inet addr:93.88.141.40 P-t-P:93.88.128.253 Mask:255.255.255.255
UP POINTOPOINT RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1492 Metric:1
RX packets:647631 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:661658 errors:0 dropped:44 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:3
RX bytes:545701887 (520.4 MiB) TX bytes:346044024 (330.0 MiB)

vlan0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 00:90:4C:C0:00:00
UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1
RX packets:504058 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:443975 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:0
RX bytes:334078103 (318.6 MiB) TX bytes:292107592 (278.5 MiB)

vlan1 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 00:90:4C:C0:00:00
inet addr:10.13.5.65 Bcast:10.13.5.255 Mask:255.255.255.0
UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1
RX packets:889353 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
TX packets:669673 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
collisions:0 txqueuelen:0
RX bytes:575960475 (549.2 MiB) TX bytes:363554025 (346.7 MiB)

Physically the wireless router D-Link DIR-320 has a 2-port router and a 6-port switch. One port of the switch is connected to the router, another one is the WAN port. The other 4 ports of the switch are the LAN ports on the back of DIR-320. The remaining port of the router is connected to the WLAN adapter.

Inside the switch exist two Virtual LANs (VLans) --- vlan0 and vlan1. vlan0 contains ports 4 LAN ports (ports 1--4) and one router port (port 6). vlan1 contains WAN port (port 0 or "Internet Port" written on the back) and router port (port 6).

There is a bridge (br0) bridging eth1 (WLAN) and eth0 (switch port 0). This bridge allows WLAN and LAN to share the same IP address. When the router needs to send information to clients, it broadcasts out br0 (to eth1 and vlan0). When we need to send information to Internet (WAN), router send directly to vlan1.

$ brctl showmacs br0
port no mac addr is local? ageing timer
2 00:1b:9e:7f:96:38 no 0.77
2 00:21:00:62:c1:86 no 0.00
2 00:23:b4:ce:cd:4e no 36.52
1 00:90:4c:c0:00:00 yes 0.00
2 00:90:4c:c1:00:00 yes 0.00
2 02:90:4c:c1:00:00 no 29.23

Via phanvinhthinh

Mar 3, 2015

How-To Install FreeNAS To USB Drive

FreeNAS is an Open Source Storage Platform based on FreeBSD and supports sharing across Windows, Apple, and UNIX-like systems. It comes with a lot of protocols and services – here are some to mention: CIFS (samba), FTP, NFS, TFTP, AFP, RSYNC, Unison, iSCSI (initiator and target) and UPnP, Software RAID (0,1,5), ZFS, disk encryption, S.M.A.R.T/email monitoring with a WEB configuration interface (from m0n0wall). You can use it to build your own secure network file server to store all your important information on.

FreeNAS can be installed on compact Flash/USB key, hard drive or booted from LiveCD (version 7.x). Personally I like to install it on USB key to keep the software separate from the data on the hard disk. The rest of this article will show you how to do it. At the time of writing the current stable version is 8.0.2. The little graph on the right shown the number of downloads – this is what people download most:


They also have a 32-bit version (FreeNAS-8.0.2-RELEASE-i386.iso) and 64-bit version (FreeNAS-8.0.2-RELEASE-amd64.iso). You should choose 32-bit or 64-bit based on the hardware of the computer you are going to run FreeNAS on:


Download the .iso file from Source Forge and save it to your hard drive, for example in C:\Temp folder.

From here you can do two things:

1. Burn the .iso file to a CD. This will give you a bootable CD from where you can install FreeNAS to a hard drive or USB stick. The older versions (7.x) also had an option to run FreeNAS from the CD without installing it. With version 8.x this option is not available anymore.

2. Extract the embedded version of FreeNAS from the .iso file and write it directly to a USB stick. This is a faster way of getting FreeNAS installed but will not allow you to add additional software later.

In this article we are going to take the second approach. I will provide a separate posting on how to do variant 1 and install Transmission.

Note: As of version 8.0.1-BETA3 the image size increased. The new size requires a 2 GB USB storage device.

Step 1) Extract the FreeNAS image

We need to extract a file from the .iso file. If you already have a tool that can do that go ahead and use it. If not you can install the Daemon Tools Lite which is free for home personal use. Mount the .iso file and extract the FreeNAS_i386_embedded.xz (32-bit version) file. In case you downloaded the 64-bit version the name of the file will be FreeNAS_amd64_embedded.xz. Copy it to your hard disk.

For the rest of the article I will assume we chose the 32-bit version.


The .xz file is a compressed file. Un-compress it and extract FreeNAS_i386_embedded which is the image we have to write to the USB drive.

I use 7-Zip for extracting the files from .xz file. Make sure you use the latest version of 7-Zip. Right-click the FreeNAS_i386_embedded.xz file and choose 7-Zip -> Extract Here. This will extract FreeNAS_i386_embedded file and place it in C:\Temp


Step 2) Prepare the USB key

Plug the USB key in your PC and format the disk as FAT32. Sometimes Windows will not be able to format it (if it was partitioned or formatted with Linux file system for example). In this case you should try a “low-level” format using this tool:

HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool

Step 3) Write the FreeNAS image to USB key

The next step is to download Physdiskwrite from here. It is a ZIP file. Unzip it and copy physdiskwrite.exe and PhysGUI.exe to C:\Temp. Run PhysGUI.exe. It has a graphical interface and will display information about storage devices (hard drives and USB devices:


Remember the Device ID (first column) of your USB stick. Open a command prompt, change the folder to C:\Temp and type:
physdiskwrite -u FreeNAS-i386-embedded
It will list the disks (the same Device ID you got from Physdiskwrite) and will ask you to which of them to write the file. In my case it is drive 1 (type 1 and press)

It will ask you to confirm (press y followed by)


The program will start writing the file and you can see the progress. After it is done you have USB stick with FreeNAS installed on it. To try it reboot your computer and make sure it boots from the USB stick (either change the boot sequence in BIOS or use one of the hot keys during boot to enter the menu where you can select the device to boot from).

Some people are experiencing problems at this step. One suggested solution (thanks Jim) is:
Open a command window as admin (“cmd”)
Type “diskpart” and hit enter.
Type “list disk” and hit enter to find out the number of your drive.
Type “select disk X” (where you replace X with the number of your drive) and hit enter.
Type “clean” and hit enter.
after that go back to your temp folder and then try the process again.

If something goes wrong and you do not get a working FreeNAS on USB stick then try the first method – burn the .ISO file to a CD, boot from the CD and install FreeNAS to USB.

If you decide to go for version 7.x you get bit-torrent client (Transmission). It is missing in 8.0.2 but there are plans to be included in the future versions.

See Roadmap for 8.1

That is all.

Or almost. Probably you could have got the same information elsewhere – in the Google’s age it is hard to be original. Actually some time ago I came across a discussion about whether the blogging was declining. There were several responses in support of this – people were not seeing much sense in re-posting information available in 1000’s other places.

Saying that I would like to thank you for visiting my blog.

Nov 12, 2013

SmartBro : How-To Setup Wireless Router with MyBro Green Packet OX230

I intend to write this article to help my guest blog reader/s and commenter/s to help them setup their SmartBro 4G WiMAX wireless broadband internet connection to extend wirelessly. The new product of SmartBro that is being reBranded to MyBro that uses Green Packet Technology from Malaysia CPEs such as DV235T for indoor and OX230 for outdoor unit with license frequency 2.3GHz. Whereas SmartBro Motorola Canopy antenna is a fixed wireless broadband internet connection obtain license frequency 5.7GHz LOS that soon to end of its life by Smart Telcos.

The OX230 is an outdoor unit built-in with antenna similar to Motorola Canopy except it is a 4G WiMAX wireless modem also serves as a router but lack of wireless LAN aka WiFi. It is not equip with VoIP port so there is no way of plugging in your POTS unlike the Huawei 4G WiMAX devices. It has only one (1) RJ45 port where you can plug your PC/Lappy likewise where the power inline to the cable with the use of PoE, this device that can be extended up to  90-100meters as long as there is conduit.


Here we go, the above screenshot of my battery operated portable wireless router  from TP-Link MR3040 it has a Standard AP (access point) this is the simplest aka Plug&Play, the easiest way to extend the MyBro OX230 with headache. If you don not have this kind of device that is capable as Standard AP then do not bother. Will take what is available in our garage, CD-R King WR-NET-018-CC this is the cheapest wireless router that we Pinoy loves to buy.


The second screenshot is CD-R King WR-NET-018-CC similar to the TP-Link they are both a wireless router, MR3040 has four operation mode while the WR-NET-018-CC don't have the other capabilities as the first one have more features.


What we do to make the  CD-R King WR-NET-018-CC act just like the Standard AP (MR3040), first we will be going to disable the DHCP Server mode likewise its no longer serves as a router but as a Standard Wireless Access Point only. Now we are going to plug the MyBro OX230 to any LAN port from 1-4 instead onto the WAN port. Automatically the CPE OX230 now will serves as the DHCP server any device will connect to CD-R King it will gives an IP address from 192.168.15.2 to 254.

On the other hand, if you wan to make the CD-R King WR-NET-018-CC (or any wireless router) act as wireless router AP that will works also with MyBro Green Packet OX230 still its possible. First you have to enable the DHCP Server mode, then plug the OX230 to WAN port. The Cons is that since OX230 has an IP address of 192.168.15.1/24 or has 253 host it will consume time routing the packets. Second on the other part of CD-R King wireless router that has also another IP address of 192.168.10.1/24 likewise has 253 host it will another consume additonal routing to the packets will prolong.

If you have any comment about your MyBro Abot Kaya internet having the same issue on extending your connection wirelessly feel free to leave message.

Apr 22, 2013

Who Has the Lowest Domain Prices

Recently, domain registries VeriSign, Afilias, and Public Interest Registry (PIR) notified all ICANN-accredited registrars that they will be raising their wholesale prices. As a consequence, consumer domain prices will increase about 50 cents at most public domain registries such as Enom and Godaddy.com. Who has the lowest domain prices? We checked 10 different ICANN approved registrars in the US and got the following results -

Registrar, .com Price/yr, .net Price/yr:
BestBulkRegister, $7.60, $6.49
1&1, $6.99, $6.99
Estdomains, $7.19, $5.89(promo)
Domain Name Superstore, $7.85, $9.45
Hostway, $7.95, $7.95
aPlus, $8.40, $7.95
NameCheap, $9.29, $9.29
Yahoo! Domains, $9.95, $9.95
Active Domain, $9.95, $9.95
Go Daddy, $9.99, $10.99
Depending on what services you want, what extension you are looking for (.com, .net, .org, country extensions, etc.), and what domain name you wish to register, the prices will vary among registrars. The prices listed are for registering one .com and .net domain name for one year. Some registrars provide different services which means a variation in prices. For example, buying more than one domain name at a certain site can give you a special deal on prices. Some sites, such as Go Daddy, offer domain names for as low as $1.99 if you purchase a non-domain product or service from them (i.e. web hosting, SSL Certificate). Certain extensions will cost more than others, with .tm and .travel on the pricey side as you can see in the chart below. Registrars also often have sales and promotions on domains. Search around and see what services and sites best fit your needs.

The table below shows average prices for various TLDs

Extension, Average Price:
.WS, $14.11
.SH/AC/IO, $61.64
.TM, $157.53
.US, $16.24
.HK, $24.66
.INFO, $7.67
.NAME, $8.63
.WS, $14.11
.TW, $30.14
.TV, $40.55
.CC, $35.34
.MOBI, $15.48
.TRAVEL, $177.53
.ASIA, $18.95
Some sites cater specifically to those looking to buy in bulk, such as eNom and BestBulkRegister. At BestBulkRegister.com (http://www.bestbulkregister.com), you will find the lowest non-promotional price for a .net domain at $6.49 each. eNom offers different packages for those looking to resell domain names. eNom's setup fees range from $195 to as much as $1,595 depending on the level of reselling. The sites listed above also have different prices for buying in bulk, but may not offer reselling tools and services.

Claiming and registering domain names can be inexpensive, and as the availability of domain names becomes more limited, the price of domain names on the resale market can be huge. 

JupiterRealEstate.com, a relatively ordinary domain name, recently sold for $17,500. Investors have taken note of the potential ROI on reselling domain names as some companies now offer financing for domain name purchases. Domain Capital, for example, claims to be "the first and only financial services company to offer financing to businesses based on the inherent and recognized value of premium domain names." Financing is extremely helpful for those without the resources to buy high-priced domain names or a large number of domain names in bulk to resell. Scott Fish writes a good blog about reselling different types of domain names (http://www.scottfish.com/domain-prices-are-going-up-and-down/). In his article he explains his take on the market for Generic Domain Names, International Domain Names, Typo Domain Names, and other factors such as financing and the dissemination of knowledge.

Most .com domain names that have potential for high value, however, have already been registered. But there are other potential markets for investment, such as the new .asia TLD. Experts predict that the Asia-Pacific region will soon be the largest Internet market in the world, and the .asia TLD gives access and exposure to that market. As opposed to country code domains, the .asia is a TLD that gives exposure to the general region as a whole and separates country and political associations, thus making the domain generally more appealing for businesses. Prices are relatively cheap for .asia domains. BestBulkRegister (http://www.GoBBR.com), mentioned earlier, sells the .asia extension for $18.95 or less depending on volume. As such, .asia has the promise that .com's previously had, but more knowledgeable investors and the option of financing blows the game wide open.

Jun 5, 2013

Free Energy Generator believe it or not!

To all my blog readers I want to share this YouTube video about this Free Energy Generator it looks like really convincing and believable without recalling your EE101. Feel free and enjoy watching to this video and credits to the uploader.


To prove this video for my hesitation I will start soon collecting all these electronics motors, magnet and the coils. It looks like this is unbelievable to my knowledge.

Sep 14, 2013

Marjorie Barretto unblurred photo scandal?

Netizens went abuzz over a scandalous photo of Marjorie Barretto wherein she allegedly exposed her right breast and her ‘land down under’.


Marjorie Barretto is the center of attention today as a nude photo of her went viral online.

Despite the ongoing wreck between her two sisters - Gretchen and Claudine – Marjorie Barretto remained silent between the issue. Now, a nude photo of her circulates throughout social media. It seems that the Barretto sisters are caught into one scandal after the other.

The mother of the newest ABS-CBN Star Magic Circle talent, Julia Barretto, denied that she is in the alleged photo.

“No, that’s not me. I would never do something like that. That’s not my nature,” the Caloocan City councilor told the entertainment blog pep.ph.”

Marjorie vowed to seek the help of the National Bureau of Investigation to find out the mastermind behind the spread of this photo.

On the other hand, she did not speculate if the circulation of the photos is related to the ongoing feud that has split her family.

Update:

Marjorie Barretto admits that she is the woman in the scandalous photos after strongly denying it in her first ambush interview.


According to News5, Atty. Lorna Kapunan, legal counsel for Marjorie Barretto has informed netizens through a text message on Tuesday morning that circulating the photos involving her client “is a blatant violation of Republic Act 9995 or the Anti-Photo and Video Voyeurism Act of 2009″.

In an interview with ABS-CBN News on Tuesday, May 7, Atty. Kapunan says “She’s a mother, she’s very upset. She’s not running for any public office precisely because she wants to guard her privacy. She has growing up daughters and ang concern niya is they are in the formative years where they understand. That’s why we are also respecting the media na sana huwag na interviewhin si Marj.”

Atty. Kapunan also asked the public to stop uploading and reposting Marjorie’s racy photos as they should remain within the family and what pictures she may have should remain private.

“Nothing is more valuable than your private reputation, nothing is more valuable than your family, and nothing is more valuable than your children. In the case of Marjorie, she has daughters so she’s appealing – regardless of what the moral judgment on the situation of the parties are concerned – to keep it private,” she said.

In addition, Atty. Kapunan revealed that they have the name already of the culprit behind this scandal but clarified that the spread of the photos is separate from the ongoing Barretto family feud. “It is enough that there is so much publicity on the family already because of sibling squabble. This one is separate and it comes at the time where motives are suspect.”

The issue started regarding Gretchen’s Instagram posts pertaining to Claudine not being happy about their niece, Julia Barretto, daughter of Marjorie, entering showbiz.

The actress turned politician has been quiet involving the feud in the Barretto clan specifically with her mother and two sisters Gretchen and Claudine.

The issue with her and the scandalous photos is nothing to do with the issue involving her mother, brother and sisters, but it is a big disgrace to her and her own family.

Jan 14, 2013

Google Makes Better Adsense Banning and Appeal Process

The Google Adsense is no doubt one of the great source of revenue for the Bloggers/Publishers. In last years Google has paid 6.5 Billion Dollars to the Adsense Publishers. It always frustrates a Publisher whenever he gets hit by Adsense Ban. Now here is a good news for all the Publishers that Google has softens it’s rules to Ban the Adsense account and the appealing process by the Publishers.


I am going to highlight the points, which Google has announced in their recent Blog Post.

  • Age/Tenure of Adsense Account: Now Google will consider the Account of Adsense Age. Google will only suspend the account instead of terminating, and will ask Publisher to fix the highlighted issue. Once the Issue is Fixed – Adsense will be back.
  • Google has given publishers tools to submit more informative appeals via a new form, which may help resolve issues more quickly.
  • Google will provide more transparency with more details on invalid activity’s causes via email and the AdSense console. If Googlle detects a violation of their policies Publsihers will receive an email and a notification to your account with further information and instructions. And Publishers can read all about the causes of invalid activity at Google’s Ad Traffic Quality Resource Center.
  • Google has expended their AdSense Academy.
Google launched a new series of videos for this specific topic. This is something very good from the Google – In fact the Publishers have taken a deep breath. Lets Hope for the best in future as well.

Via pakzindabad

Jan 10, 2015

Free Download Sevida 1.7 Blogger Template

Sevida is the premium responsive blog and magazine template for Blogger fans. This template shows you how cool and flexible Blogspot magazine template can be.


We have brought for you Free download of Sevida theme v1.7 with following features:

Free Download Sevida 1.7 Blogger Template link 1

Sevida Blogger Template Features
  • Current version: 1.7
  • 100% Responsive.
  • Manual Featured Post Work with Image Widget(Slideshow) New
  • Lightweight Auto read-more support third party image and youtube (option make it slideshow) New
  • Ajax load more post
  • Ajax Page Navigation New *
  • Support Mega Menu New
  • Recent Post by Labels (10+ Post Type (Slider, Combine, Vertical, Horizontal, Gallery 1, Gallery 2, Simple, Slideshow) support Random)—Support ShortCode New *
  • Allow visitors increase / decrease text size and auto remember for future.
  • Support RTL Language New
  • Lightweight Version New

Mar 21, 2013

CD-R King CW-5356U Tomato Firmware

I cobbled together a network-attached storage (NAS) at home to enable everyone in our house to have a shared directory for school, work and personal files. This shared directory is also accessible from outside the house – like a rudimentary personal “cloud” for our family.


It wasn’t complicated — you can go to my blog for the article on the process — because the setup was a matter of connecting an old portable USB drive to a cheap CD-R King wireless router and setting things up using a visual interface.

The magic sauce in the setup is the Tomato firmware that runs on the router. Tomato is a Linux-based router firmware that allows you to manage your device on such things as filtering and setting quality of service rules for certain types of connections so that people browsing websites don’t experience crawling connection when someone downloads using a torrent.

The Tomato firmware that comes with the CD-R King router that I use, a CW-5356U model, simplifies the setting up of a NAS by allowing you to plug a portable drive into the router’s USB port. You can set the system to auto-mount any drive that you plug into it and make it shareable in your network. You can also designate a password for your shared drive so that not everyone who connects to your Wi-Fi can access it.

The system also assists you in setting up an FTP (file transfer protocol) server that will allow you to access that drive outside of your network. You can, with the setup, access your home files from the office or even on the go.

Promise of open source

What’s even more fun is that you can view movies stored on your portable drive over your iPhone or iPad.

The router also has a facility that will allow you to connect a printer to its USB port to turn it into a network printer. It also allows you to set up complex rules that can, for example, bar your children from accessing Facebook during class days but allow you to continue using the social network.

For just P1,280, the wireless router trumps the features of branded and more expensive models.

I think the CD-R King router illustrates the promise of open source software.

Tomato firmware is open source, meaning it is released under a license that encourages sharing the software and collaborating to make it better. Any wireless router manufacturer can use the Tomato firmware for its product. By using Tomato, the manufacturer no longer has to spend to develop and maintain its own firmware. Instead, it can just concentrate on the manufacturing side of the business.

By using Tomato, CD-R King is able to manufacture a router that’s really top-class for such a low price.

But if there’s an open source project that’s really making such a huge impact, it’s Android. There are phones in the market today that are powerful and advanced and yet cost less than P10,000. Cherry Mobile’s Flare, for example, costs just P3,999 but comes with formidable specs: Android ICS, 1.2 Ghz dual-core processor, five-megapixel camera and dual-SIM capability. It was such a hot item during the holidays that stocks were wiped out.

Nov 8, 2019

Overwrite A5-V11 Qualcomm OEM Firmware With OpenWrt Image

Here are few steps to overwrite OEM firmware of a5-v11 router with openwrt.

1) Prepare a FAT formatted USB-Flash-Drive and unzip this a5-v11-openwrt.zip to USB-Flash-Drive. (Important: do not just copy a5-v11-openwrt.zip to flash-drive, unzip this file to USB-Flash-Drive, this folder contains openwrt-factory.bin with needed boot-loader and update scripts)

2) Prepare this setup as shown in the picture below.


3) After applying +5v power to a5-v11, RED-LED on this router stays ON for few seconds, and then BLUE-LED starts blinking (from power-ON to blinking-blue-led-state, it takes about 1minute)

4) By this time, your PC would get the ip in the range of 192.168.100.x from the a5-v11's dhcp server.


5) Ensure that your a5-v11 has qualcomm firmware by looking at the web-UI of this router.


NOTE: Do not continue incase if your router's web-page is different than the one shown above(Qualcomm), you might have received another variant having chinese firmware, Instructions for overwriting the chinese firmware are given in my other blog.

6) telnet to the a5-v11 using putty.exe(or telnet command) as shown below.


6) Run the following commands as shown in the picture below


7) After rebooot, wait for a minute, this time, openwrt firmware would boot on a5-v11, and your PC would get the ip in the range of 192.168.1.x

8)If everything goes well, your browser would show the following webUI of openwrt


9) As shown above, follow step-1 and 2 to login with default root user.

10) After login you will see following page


11) you can overwrite openwrt firmware with your own openwrt-variant by clicking on menu system=>Backup/Flash Firmware as shown in the picture above.Have Fun hacking your a5-v11 with opensource firmware!!!


Dec 31, 2014

Creating a Windows Server 2012 Failover Cluster

Creating a cluster on Windows Server 2012 is easy experience!

After installing the Failover Clustering feature, and validating a configuration, the next step is to create a new cluster. There are some minor changes in the create cluster experience in Windows Server 2012, but it is very similar to creating a cluster in Windows Server 2008 R2.

For details on installing the Failover Clustering feature, see this blog posting: http://blogs.msdn.com/b/clustering/archive/2012/04/06/10291601.aspx

To learn more about validation, see this TechNet article: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc731844(v=ws.10).aspx

You can create a cluster using the Failover Cluster Manager UI, or using PowerShell. Both of these can be installed on Windows Server 2012 or Remote Server Administration Tools (RSAT) for Windows Server 2012.

Creating a Failover Cluster using Failover Cluster Manager

1. Open Failover Cluster Manager - it can be opened from Server Manager using the Tools menu:


2. In the Failover Cluster Manager, choose the “Create Cluster…” action, which can be found in 3 places:


3. The Create Cluster Wizard initializes. Review the information on the Before You Begin screen. Click Next

4. Enter the names of all the servers that will be part of the cluster. Note: More than one node can be specified at a time, using comma separation.

Example: MyServer1, MyServer2, MyServer3

5. If the nodes specified have not been validated, the following page in the wizard will be shown. It’s highly recommended to validate the configuration before you create the cluster. This will help ensure that the servers are connected and configured correctly and that it can be supported by Microsoft:

Read more about Creating a Windows Server 2012 Failover Cluster at blogs.msdn.com

Jan 25, 2015

Canon PowerShot S100 Snap Review

Thanks for joining me from my article entitled COMPARISON: Nikon 1 V1, Fuji x10, & Canon s100 (plus Fuji x100 and Canon G12 & s95)! In this article I’ll review the Canon PowerShot s100 on its own merits using the methodology described in the intro article. I reviewed the s95 in the past and came pretty close to buying it when I decided to go with the G12 instead. On paper all of the improvements to the s100 made it seem so good that I thought I might be giving up my G12 to get one, but after extensive use I didn’t find it to live up to my expectations based on its specs.

Please note that excluding the two s100 product shots (courtesy of Canon USA), all of the photos in this article are unedited in-camera JPEG’s).

What’s New

  • Longer lens range (equivalent to 24-120mm) at a range of f/2.0 to f/5.9
  • 12.1 megapixel 1/1.7" Canon sensor (CMOS)
  • ISO 80-6400
  • DIGIC V image processor
  • 2.3 fps continuous shooting (and up to 8 frames in High-Speed burst scene mode – JPEG Full Auto only)
  • Full HD 1080p video recording with support for both  H.264 compression and the MOV file format
  • Optical zoom in movie mode
  • Super slow motion movie recording (640 x 480 @ 120fps, 320 x 240 @ 240 fps)
  • Direct movie record button
  • Built-in GPS unit with image tagging and logger functions

Living with the s100

Canon has packed the s100 full of great features like built-in GPS tracking, a huge LCD on the rear for its size, amazingly good high ISO performance up to 6400, and an innovative ring selector on the front that is programmable so you can have your favorite feature readily accessible without going into menus. Its slender size and these are the things that made me excited about this camera.

Now that I’ve said what I like, it’s time to be blunt. I’ve been very unimpressed with the build quality and reliability of both the s95 and s100 I’ve tested. The s95 quickly developed a dead row of pixels on the sensor and this s100 suffers from obscenely short battery life (sometimes as little as 30 minutes of normal use (i.e., not video or continuous on), despite coming off a full charge. I also find that despite how great it seems in the tech specs when you compare it to the G12, the reality is that when you are out shooting kids in the real world it just can’t keep up as well as the G12 can (in Av/Tv/P modes).

Despite its faster Digic V processor and its f/2 lens, The s100 seems to have a longer delay from the time you push the shutter release until it actually takes the shot, which for kids means you’ve missed the shot. While you can use the High-Speed Burst HQ scene mode to get a fast burst of 8 shots, or the “Kids & Pets” mode, RAW is not supported and frequently the subject is out of focus. 

Mouse over to see the typical blurry result, and mouse out to see the best I could get in "real world" conditions
f/5.9 for 1/125 sec at ISO 6400 (26mm) Aperture Priority / Tungsten White Balance
Unedited from In-Camera JPEG

I also found myself getting a large number of out of focus shots in real world indoor shooting. In the shot above I was in my studio under reasonably decent Solux lights with my model on a bright white studio paper background. I also put a reflector under face, so she’s the best indoor lighting situation you are going to find. While I could have shot this at f/2, the reality is that when I’m shooting a person and want to create a flattering shot I’ll typically back off and zoom in to make the body features appear a bit slimmer. This model has a wider face, so shooting at f/2 or f/2.2 would get me down to ISO 500 (this creating a sharper image) at the expense of distortion and a more full body framing (unless I got obnoxiously close when shooting) as shown here: 

Click to see the original
f/2.2 for 1/60 sec at ISO 500
Shooting wide open isn’t always desirable
when indoors due to distortion and working distance
Unedited from In-Camera JPEG

I really want to love this camera because its form factor is brilliant. I love the size and weight – especially when it is closed up. It seems to be significantly better than the s95 based on my unscientific analysis of everyday real world shots I was able to get from the s95 vs the s100. The s100 images appear to have more dynamic range and the high ISO performance, even in RAW, is excellent (much better than the G12 in fact). That said, it’s not even close to the quality found in the x10, but its about half the price and size so that’s forgivable. 


f/2 for 1/30 sec (handheld) at ISO 250 (5.2mm) Macro Mode
Full Auto HDR Creative Filters Mode
Lens was about 1 inch from the flower
Unedited from In-Camera JPEG

I was very happy with the macro mode on this camera as the minimum focus distance when you are in macro mode is quite good. I was able to get within an inch at min zoom and about 6 inches at max zoom (in macro mode) and acquire clear focus to get the shot. This makes it a great tool for the amateur macro photographer and teens.
Built-In Intelligence is Very Good
The Auto mode as well as the Special Scene (SCN) and Creative Filters modes are technology marvels. While some modes are downright cheesy (Super Vivid) or useless (Color Swap), many are brilliant for the amateur photographer that doesn’t own a DSLR or Photoshop. As I mentioned in my G12 review, modes like Miniature Effect, Fisheye and HDR will are very fun to play with and the results are respectable. There’s a brilliant Smart Shutter mode that will wait for the subject to smile and then automatically take 3 photos (including raising the flash automatically if required). It works well under the right conditions, and nearly always gets a clear shot (even if the shot looks like crap due to direct flash or poor lighting conditions that are beyond the camera’s control).

I was very happy with the built-in image stabilization – it really works quite well on static subjects. Naturally no image stabilization will help you when your subject moves – that’s still a shutter speed issue – so indoors you still need to find the light or God forbid use the flash to avoid the typical point and shoot motion blur. 

The built-in stitching mode for panoramas hasn’t changed, and in my mind is the most useless and unfriendly design on the market. I rarely get a usable result, but if you’ve used it and mastered it then this may not be an issue for me. I do wish Canon would see what Fujifilm has done for their panorama modes on the x100 and x10 – it’s the most brilliant and idiot proof design that just works flawlessly 90% of the time (on static subjects).

Night Shooting & HDR Mode

Using a Gitzo GT1541 tripod (with no head for extra stability), and the 2 second timer mode (to reduce interference from hand induced camera shake), I experimented with taking a shot using the full auto mode, the HDR Creative Filter mode (which takes 4 shots and merges), and the Handheld Night Scene mode. It was after midnight and it was raining lightly, but no wind. There was ambient light from the porches of two houses, but cloud cover made it a pretty dark night. Here’s what I ended up getting in these three modes (visit the gallery here for full-size originals):


HDR Creative Filter Mode on a Tripod with 2 second Timer
Great dynamic range, but disappointingly blurry
(note: default IS mode was used – not tripod IS mode)

Handheld NightScene Mode
f/2 for 1/15 sec at ISO 3200 (auto best of 4)
Impressive, but a touch dark and blurry

Full Auto Mode – Night Scene Detected  (Tripod with 2 second timer)
Very sharp and clear, but less dynamic range than HDR
f/2 for 1 second @ ISO 400
(note: default IS mode was used – not tripod IS mode)
Personally I like the last one best which proves that the old tried and true method of using a tripod for a long exposure isn’t a bad way to go even in these days with technical gadgetry. It’s cool that all three modes are offered though, and at the end of the day there may be times where the auto modes could make the difference between getting the shot and not. After all, how many people will really have tripods (or natural support in the exact right space) when your out with your point and shoot?
Color Accent Mode
Mouse over to see before, mouse out to see after
With solid colors in isolation, the Sin City look is instantly possible in-camera

Even though this feature has been around for a while, I haven’t discussed it on my blog before. The way this works is you turn the mode dial to Creative Filters mode, and isolate a color via the LCD and the control dial. The color you choose remains in color and everything else goes to black and white. As shown above you get the typical “Sin City” look, but it works best on solid colors. When trying to apply it to flowers it doesn’t work as well (although the LCD view will fool you into thinking its perfect):

Mouse over to see before, mouse out to see after
It’s a bit of a fail when there’s more than one tone though

Image Quality

For a point and shoot camera, the image quality of this camera is actually quite good. When using in-camera JPEG’s, images up to ISO 6400 are usable even if they are a tad soft. Using noise reduction software on the RAW’s can leave you with an outstanding result for a sensor this small. Part of the improvement comes from a new sensor and in-camera processing that does a much better job of reducing the noise at the RAW level before creating the in-camera JPEG. The net result is that more detail is preserved over the s95 when those JPEG’s are created. 


Click to view the original to see that detail in the shadows and bright areas is respectable
f/2 for 1/30 sec (handheld) at ISO 500 (5.2mm) Full Auto Mode

The dynamic range appears to have been improved in this over the s95 or even the G12, but the images seem to be lacking something that is hard to quantify in scientific terms. They just frequently fail to please me – especially when viewing them in Lightroom. DPP does a great job of making the images look their best (both RAW and JPEG) and printing direct from DPP to a professional Canon printer (like the Canon ipf6300) from a RAW image can often create astonishingly good results with no photo editing at all (go to any Canon trade show event to see this in action to see what I mean).
Overall this camera has the typically good in-camera color that Canon is known for, but when pushed the reality of its small sensor become apparent (2nd shot below). 


Under the right conditions, the color rendition was excellent

When pushed, the limited dynamic range became apparent

Features

The s100 offers the standard modes of Program (P), Shutter Speed Priority (Tv), Aperture Priority (Av) , Manual, Custom (user-defined variant of the previously mentioned), and full auto (JPEG) only. There’s also a movie mode which can now be accessed directly via the new record button shown above.

Two of the most useful point and shoot modes (JPEG only) are Creative Filters and Special Scene (SCN) modes because that’s where all of the engineering intelligence in this camera lives. I’ve discussed some of the features already, but these modes are great for times when you don’t want to think – you just want to take pictures. You give the camera a little more input about what you want to do (i.e., beach, underwater, sunset, kids & pets, etc…) and it uses all its power to give you the best result for that scenario. Using these modes I got significantly more in-focus and usable shots than I did when I tried to use Aperture Priority (Av) or even Program (P) mode. You don’t get an option to save RAW images when you do this, so what you get is pretty much what you get, but the camera does everything in its power to give you a sharp shot with a balanced histogram. As a result these images are typically salvageable for post-processing and in-focus

The controls of this camera are excellent, and the addition of the record button and better focusing options have made this iteration more friendly in daily real world use over its predecessor. I found myself programming the ring dial in the front to exposure compensation really helps a lot, and the auto ISO seems to do a good job of making the right tradeoffs of ISO versus the appropriate shutter speed.

The built-in GPS support was useless indoors as it would never acquire a satellite signal, but if you went outdoors and had a clear signal then it would pick up after a few minutes. This is typical GPS behavior for devices that can’t do triangulation so don’t expect the GPS to record all the places you’ve been on your trip if you’ll be shooting a lot indoors. You can leave GPS logging on to help with that scenario, but bring about 30 batteries because you’ll need it.
Beware – you need LOTS of batteries
Speaking of batteries, the biggest gripe I have about this camera is its battery. While it is nice and compact, it seems that all of the technical hoo ha of this camera drains the battery very quickly. It’s pointless to disable all of those features, so you’ll need multiple spare batteries with this camera. The best performance I got on a battery was about 3 hours of usage (at a car show), and the camera was only turned on when needed. I didn’t have GPS turned on (especially logging which would get you down to about 30 minutes), so the rest was in what I’d call normal out of the box settings.

Factor this into your cost as the batteries were $43.95 EACH at the time this article was written, so you may not be saving much over more expensive cameras when you add the batteries required to get an equivalent shooting time.

For a full feature list, visit Canon USA.

s95 & G12 Owners – Upgrade Advice

If you own a s95 and love it, I think this camera is worth the upgrade based on image quality and performance alone. The 1080p video is a big plus as well. The GPS feature is a battery sucking vampire on a camera that already drains the battery faster than a frat house keg on graduation night, so consider that issue (and cost) when upgrading.

If you own a G12, this camera does offer some nice new features and performance (especially in the dynamic range and higher ISO’s), but fundamentally the G12 is the better camera for those who won’t be shooting in the full auto – jpeg only modes. It also lacks the durability, reliability and pivoting LCD of the G12 so I’d advise against replacing a G12 with a s100.

Sample Photos

To see a gallery of test images (including original in-camera JPEG download). Here’s a few medium size samples that show off what this camera can do:




Conclusion

All of the technical wizardy of this camera is impressive and is sure to please the average consumer who doesn’t have a DSLR. If you don’t care about RAW images and just want to capture memento photos, the special scene and creative filter modes will help you get the shot that is suitable for posting on your favorite social networking sites.

If you are a DSLR owner looking for a pocketable alternative to the beast, I suspect you’ll be disappointed with this camera. While the images aren’t bad, the dynamic range just isn’t there and is sure to dissapoint. While the price might suggest that its is good enough, when you’ve seen other alternatives like the more expensive Fujifilm X10, you realize that small doesn’t have to mean poor quality.

This isn’t a bad camera and the form factor is excellent, but it’s just not one that I think my average reader is really going to be happy with. Do you want your trip to Disney, or that birthday celebration to have shots that are blurry and bleached out looking? I don’t, so I’d rather see Canon do something like Fujifilm’s EXR mode to useless megapixels, but create a significantly better image (in terms of quality and dynamic range). Few people will be printing massive posters using images from their point and shoot, and even a 4 megapixel image is sufficient for a nice letter size print these days (or greater, depending on viewing distance).

I also hated the fact that the battery just doesn’t last very long so you’ll need a bunch of them. I’d seriously have about 4 of them pre-charged if I were going out to Disney all day, so that adds nearly $200 to the cost of this camera. For that price you can get the superior Fujifilm X10 which offers significantly better image quality and performance.

I’d rather have a 3 megapixel version of this camera that had much better dynamic range and faster performance. Despite its great stats on paper, a car analogy is in order – it’s much like comparing a Ford Mustang GT to a Porsche Cayman S. While the Mustang might fare well on paper, and looks are subjective, when you actually use both you realize there is no comparison.

My wife liked the s95 when she compared it to the G12, but we ultimately went with the G12, Now that she’s a seasoned G12 owner, she lasted 10 minutes with this camera before she handed it back to me in disgust and resumed using the G12. She said she still loved the compact size, but we made the right decision getting the G12.

Posted by guest blogger via ronmartblog.com

Jun 29, 2019

PLDT Fibr ONU AN5506-04-FA Backdoor Exploit

In the late year of 2016 there was a house to house PLDT agent promoting and advertising for the PLDT Home Fibr in our town particularly on my sister area, I was in my sister's resident that time and the PLDT Home Fibr promoter belling the gate of my sister house while I were there.  I open up the gate, the PLDT Home Fibr advertiser introduces me their Fiber Internet broadband product that they are having the limited promo  for FREE installation including the WiFi once you switch from other ISP's or waived the installation fees plus the device if your are a new subscriber on the monthly billing. I recommend and encourages my sister to get the offer of the PLDT Home Fibr as it is very late  this kind of stuff for my motherland whereas in other developed countries like Singapore or Malaysia they are far from us when it comes to technology.

I noticed the PLDT Home Fibr whenever your monthly internet bills overdue they will automatically disallow you from accessing the internet totally, your PLDT Fiber ONU is blocked and you can never ever enjoy surfing the net unless you have to pay your outstanding fees. Unlike Globe and Smart wireless internet broadband even if you device is banned from accessing the net still you can trick it with the vpn apps. I was thinking perhaps the PLDT Home Fibr is just like the old legacy SmartBro Canopy wireless internet that I have enjoyed the FREE internet for a very very long period time untill the WiMAX replace it.

I have stayed in my sister house during the weekends and the internet connection was interrupted due to late monthly bills payment. So i try to tweak with the old ways like the wireless internet SmartBro Canopy  and it works and my sister said how come you have the internet and we do not have? I said this is just temporary internet connection while your PLDT account is blocked.

While I was inside the PLDT Home Fibr ONU $hell I tour around and see what I have to see looking for stuffs that is interesting while hopping by hops into some other PLDT subscriber's ONU $hell. I find it very interesting, just imagine you can get into the PLDT ONU fiber device and hops by hops from one onto the other ONU device and can copy paste the inside or wipe out the entire filesystem of the ONU's.

The backdoor of PLDT Home Fibr ONU devices such as Fiberhome AN5506-04-F, AN5506-04-FA/T is very special that I do not want to disclosed on this blog. These three Fiberhome AN5506-04-XX series of the PLDT Home Fibr ONU device is until now widely open as of the time I am writing I have tested and proven and not have been yet close for sure the PLDT Tech team will not close the backdoor where they used to enter.

I write this issue because I want to differ the comment on kbeflo's gist.github by chudyvf that.

for those still have rp2627, change iptables directly.
iptables -R INPUT 1 -p TCP --dport 7547 -j REJECT --reject-with tcp-reset
iptables -I INPUT 2 -i lo -p TCP --dport 443 -j ACCEPT
iptables -I INPUT 3 -i br0 -p TCP --dport 23 -j ACCEPT
iptables -I INPUT 4 ! -i br0 -p TCP --dport 443 -j REJECT --reject-with tcp-reset
iptables -I INPUT 5 ! -i br0 -p TCP --dport 23 -j REJECT --reject-with tcp-reset

He commented or suggested, that the PLDT Home Fibr ONU devices aka Fiberhome AN5506-04-FA/T and AN5506-04-F to be safe from the PLDT ONU firmware updates RP2631, it is highly recommended that the above mentioned iptables command is a must for us to redo the iptables. On my own opinion as I have written and commented on kbeflo's gist.github the PLDT ONU firmware updates can not and will not be prevented from patching the firmware updates regardless of what ports you closed  or iptables you redo. The PLDT can still enter your ONU deivices using the so called BACKDOOR, whether  your are connected to the internet or NOT for as long as you are hook to the PLDT Fiberhome OLT you are bound for the firmware updates patching. As I have said I have been thru that backdoor!

My ultimate recommendation or solution to all the PLDT Home Fibr subscribers that are having or using the Fiberhome ONU devices such as AN5506-04-FA/T and AN5506-04-F is on the hardware side from being forcibly firmware updates to RP2631. But you have to be an electronics hobby, this thing needs basic soldering skill. The solution is to pull up the write-protect pinouts of the NAND flash from the circuit so that whenever there is an updates your ONU devices is protected unless you switch ON the write-protect of the NAND flash pinouts.

Your thoughts and comments are welcome, to be true I don't trust the PLDT Home Fibr ONU's better give me a fiber media converter I will provide my own wireless router access point, I rather have favor on OpenWRT, DD-Wrt or Tomato.

Jul 22, 2019

Getting the PPP Username and Password for CenturyLink Zyxel C1000Z Modem

My first DSL modem in 1999 required Telnetting in via serial port to USB. I had to call a network technician at Qwest, and followed by typing in what seemed like arcane commands. I had no idea what I was doing. Things have changed for the better, but most DSL modems still have the ability to log into them directly through command line interfaces. The C1000Z runs BusyBox Linux which comes loaded with your usual base Linux utilities, so if you can wield Bash, you can hack your modem.

Grabbing your PPP username

I was looking to enabled the Transparent Bridge mode for my new Netgear R6050 after a friend managed to break the internal antenna on my Zyxel C1000Z, I wasn’t home so I don’t know the physics involved. Rather than pay $99 to CenturyLink for a new modem/router I decided to buy a new WAP/Router.

Having a little network administration under my belt, I figured I could grab the PPP Password.

The following guide was indispensable and got me 95% of the way there so I suggest checking it out first and/or following it along with my more “For Dummies” guide:

How to Find Your CenturyLink PPP Password on a Zyxel C1000Z Modem

You’ll want a basic understanding of SSH and/or Telnet. OS X regardless of version come with SSH and Telnet as does (almost) every flavor of Linux. Windows users will need Putty.

You’ll want a basic understanding of SSH and/or Telnet. OS X regardless of version come with SSH and Telnet as does (almost) every flavor of Linux. Windows users will need Putty.

Step 1:

First you’ll need to enable telnet in your Router, and you’ll need PPPoe enabled (Under WAN settings), these can easily be done through the Modem’s GUI


Step 2:

Fire up your terminal (Windows users will have to use Putty, and translate the instruction) and type:

telnet YOUR-IP-ADRRESS

In this example, my router’s IP address is 192.168.0.1, this is the default address so I would type:
telnet 192.168.0.1
It make take a moment for the router to respond, once it does, respond something like “BCM963268 Broadband Router” and it should ask for your username, type in the username you entered hit return and it should then ask for your password, enter the password you typed in, hit return.

Step 3:

Using the terminal we can call all the active tasks running on the modem, to do so type:
ps
Geek stuff: Users can use sh to access the BusyBox linux Bash shell and run task monitoring software like top. If you’re feeling adventurous, type sh and poke around using commands like ls and top. You can grab the process ID using top just like we do in step 4.

Step 4:

You should see a long list of responses, that read:
PID USER       VSZ STAT COMMAND  
1 admin     1556 S    init  
2 admin        0 SW<  [kthreadd]    3
 admin        0 SW<  [migration/0]  
4 admin        0 SW   [sirq-high/0]
and so on... We’re only interested in one entry, the one that’s running the pppd (or ppp*) command. it’ll probably be at the bottom. It should read something like:
3494 admin     1808 S    pppd -c ppp0.1 -i ptm0.1 -u myusername@qwest.net -p **
The myusername@qwest.net is your username.

Step 5:
cat proc/3494/cmdline 

Next you’ll need to analyze the process ID further, take special note of the preceding number, in this example its 3494. Type in the console:
pppd-cppp0.1-iptm0.1-umyusername@qwest.net-pjlFrVNtRMtU=-f0-D0-n1-L0-X120 >
The password portion of this is encoded, the tricky part here is identifying it. We know the that this is a concatenated line by gauging from the previous line. The password portion should be between -p  and -.  In this example, the encoded password is:
jlFrVNtRMtU=
Step 6:

This password is encoded in base64, thanks to the leg work Make a new tab or new terminal window, and type:
echo "jlFrVNtRMtU=" | base64 --decode
It should spit back something like:

ac7gkDnUmac-pro:~ user$

The ac7gkDnU will be your PPP password. Congrats! You’re now ready to enable transparent bridge mode on your router.

Article posted by blog@greggant.com

Feb 27, 2014

PETER DAVEY : Sonic Resonance Boiler

Peter Davey, 92-Year Old Sax-Player Uses Resonance to Boil Water Inexpensively.

HOT PROSPECT: Peter Davey, a 92-year-old Christchurch inventor and saxophone player, says he has used his love of music to come up with a device that boils water rapidly, in just the amount required.

Inventor and saxophone player Peter Davey has come up with a device that he claims boils water in no time.

He calls it the "sonic boiler" because he claims it uses the power of sound. How the heater actually works has confounded experts.

The device looks oddly like a bent desk lamp, with a metallic ball at the end instead of a lightbulb. When plugged into the power supply, and the ball is lowered into water, it boils the liquid within seconds -- even as little as a tablespoonful.

"Everybody boils twice the amount of water they need so I decided I would find a way to boil water and make steam more economically," said Davey, a former Spitfire pilot.

"This boils exactly what you want to drink."

Davey, who lives in a tumbledown two-storey historic homestead called Locksley in Dallington, has been using the boiler to make hot drinks for 30 years.

He said he first came up with the concept 50 years ago and it took him half of those years to figure out how to make the device.

"The principle is beautiful. I have cashed in on a natural phenomenon and it's all about music," he said.

"If I hadn't been playing the saxophone, I probably wouldn't have come up with the idea."

Davey noticed as he played the saxophone at home that everything resonated at a different frequency.

"The glasses will tinkle on one note. Knives and forks in the drawer will tinkle on another note and I realised that everything has its point of vibration," he said. "In the same way, a component in the ball is tuned to a certain frequency."

Davey said it took years of trial and error to get the device to where it is now. He has made a number of prototypes using the same principle, including a steamer.

Friends dropping by over the years have urged Davey to make them a sonic boiler and that got him thinking commercially.

Davey, who turns 92 today, is now looking for a manufacturer who will buy the technology and make the devices for the mass market.

"Nowadays, with the economy of water and electricity, I think it could be even more important than when I conceived the idea," he said. "They could sell a million of the things in China."

Davey estimated boilers could be made as cheaply as $9 each. He could imagine cafes using them as a gimmick to make express tea and coffee.

"I cannot wait to explain the principle to somebody who wants to take it on," he said.

The Press invited a retired Canterbury University engineer, Professor Arthur Williamson, to look at the boiler and he was stumped.

He watched Davey boil various quantities of water, took notes of the energy used and temperatures reached. He left scratching his head.

"I don't know enough about sound to know whether you can transfer that amount of energy via soundwaves. I doubt it," said Williamson.

He did remember an alternative kettle years ago that had two perforated metal plates inside. The power ran between the plates, through the water. "The resistance through the water provided the load. I wonder if it isn't working like that? Without taking it to bits, you can't tell."

The kettle was specially designed to prevent people getting a shock from touching the boiling water.

Williamson's verdict of the sonic boiler? "It is an interesting gimmick, irrespective of how it works. I would probably buy one as a gimmick. I think more homework needs to be done."

Also queuing up for a boiler, after first seeing one in the 1960s, is Stu Buchanan, leader of the Garden City Big Band and a friend of Davey.

"It's rather spectacular. I don't know why it has never taken off as a utensil for people. I think it's a class act," said Buchanan.

Davey was born in Hamilton in 1916. During World War 2 he flew Spitfires for the 602 City of Glasgow Squadron of the Royal Auxiliary Air Force. The squadron operated along the south coast of England, escorting bombers to Holland and Belgium, doing convoy patrols and fighter sweeps into France.

After the war's end he married and had two children. He bought Locksley in 1964. Davey shares the top storey of the homestead with his 55-year-old son, also called Peter, and a grey tabby cat called Santa. The ground floor is let to lodgers who help pay the bills.

Video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1527526922275986120&hl=en


Revolutionary Sonic Boiler Probably Not A Scam!
(January 31, 2008)

Well, we don’t really know how quickly Peter Davey’s “sonic boiler” is supposed to be working. The article says it boils the water “within seconds”, which is a bit of a fuzzy definition. I’d like to see exactly how fast it actually does boil it.

And if you want to transfer energy to a liquid, hitting the resonant frequency of that amount of liquid in that container is actually not a good way to do it. That’ll just spray water up the walls. And talk of “resonances” is of course practically diagnostic of crackpottery.

But, making the usual allowances for scientific illiteracy in the popular press, it’s possible that someone could have come up with a way to dump energy into water faster than your normal immersed heating element can do it.

Immersed elements are already pretty darn good, though.

The “2200-2400W” electric jug in my kitchen will bring half a litre of water to a good enthusiastic boil in about eighty seconds, and it draws as much power as you can get from the maximum ten-amp-per-socket current rating of 220-240V countries like Australia and New Zealand, where this inventor resides.

The sonic boiler could be running at 15 amps or more, but that’s cheating; 15-amp sockets are special equipment (used for things like air conditioners), and anybody can boil tons of water in half a second if they’re allowed to use as much electricity as they like.

About 500ml is the minimum amount you can put in most electric jugs without leaving some of the heating element hanging in the air to overheat. It’s also two mugs worth of liquid. So, as Peter Davey says, people certainly do often boil more water than they need. But making an electric jug of conventional design that can heat one mug worth of liquid is not a great engineering challenge. Let’s do the sums and see how fast such a jug could perform, in Physics Experiment Land where pulleys have no friction and cows are spherical.

The (physics, rather than dietary) calorie is the amount of thermal energy necessary to raise the temperature of one gram of water by one Celsius degree. So if you start with 250 millilitres of water at 25°C (which means almost exactly 250 grams of it) and need to raise it all to 100°C, you need 75*250=18,750 calories, which is 78,450 joules.

A joule is a watt-second. So if you’ve got a 2400-watt heater that transfers heat with perfect efficiency to water, you must run it for 32.7 seconds to do this job.

Taking that into account, my electric jug is, clearly, not that far from the theoretical maximum water-heating efficiency.

Assuming its element could be fully submerged in only 250ml of water, that water would boil in about forty seconds, which is only 1.22 times the Physics Experiment Land time for the job.

Given that the element has to heat up from the inside out, and that some energy is lost through the walls of the jug, and that some more is lost to internal evaporation and sound and so on, this electric jug is clearly working about as well as it even theoretically could, when you take real-world limitations into account. Some other 2400-watt heater, built in such a way as to be less limited, could only possibly do the job in 82% of the time, unless it was magically getting energy from nowhere. And Peter Davey does not appear to be making any such claims.

(I’m also assuming that he’s not cheating by pre-heating the boiler before it’s dipped in the water. It’s not hard to boil water “instantly” if you drop a red-hot rock in it.)

So I say good luck to this bloke. He may well have come up with a genuinely new and interesting heater element design, which may have advantages over existing bare immersible heaters, which are generally rather dangerous things. And his heater may work very nicely with even small amounts of water, which in itself is a step forward; you can get electric kettles with the element built into the baseplate which work with arbitrarily small amounts of water, but they take longer to heat up in the first place because of all the extra metal around the element. There may indeed be a niche for this sonic heater, if it performs as advertised.

But there ain’t no such thing as a free lunch. If the sonic heater works very much faster, in seconds-per-gram terms, than any old discount-store electric jug, then it’s another perpetual motion machine, which would have a few applications beyond just making a quick cup of tea.

9 Comments »

1. Technically, you could change the pressure of the water to make it boil at a lower temperature. That’s cheating, though. (This actually might be how the device works; it also gives a reason for the talk of resonance.)

Comment by evilmrhenry — January 31, 2008 @ 7:24 pm
2. Well, the picture doesn’t give any indication of a pressure vessel, and a device that lowered the air pressure in an unsealed container filled with water would act as a straw and draw the water out.

The thing about resonance is that its main useful property in an application such as this would be to transmit mechanical energy- and given that converting electrical energy to mechanical energy is not as efficient as converting electrical energy to thermal energy, then even if your mechanical->thermal conversion is 100% efficient, you’ve used more energy than you would if you converted electrical energy directly to thermal energy, which is bloody close to 100% efficient as it is.

Unless there’s something weird like sonoluminescence going on (possible I guess) I can’t see how this is more effective than an straight resistive element job.

Comment by dabrett — January 31, 2008 @ 9:07 pm
3. Out of curiosity… what’s the energy coupling like of a microwave oven? Does a 1000W microwave heat up water as fast as a 1000W kettle would? I’m assuming that the 1000W lable is the power available within the cooking area, as the magnatron is hardly 100% efficient.

Comment by jaws_au — January 31, 2008 @ 10:46 pm
4. About your water heating math…been along time since I was in high school chemistry, but isn’t getting water to the boiling temperature the easy part of boiling? I seem to recall that there’s a “transition energy” you need to pump in to actually make the transition from very hot water to steam.

Comment by opus7600 — February 1, 2008 @ 12:31 am
5. I wonder if this device includes one of those ultrasonic transducers that atomize water like those “cool mist” vaporizers. You turn it on and the water immediately starts bubbling and you get a mist out of it. The water isn’t getting any warmer, but you get the illusion of boiling. The fact that the inventor is using his bare hands to hold the glass of boiling water gives me pause. Even though glass is, in general, a good insulator, it isn’t that good.

So, take the ultrasonic transducer out of a vaporizer, add a traditional resistive heating element, and you get a device that makes water appear to boil right away, and you can stall any skeptics until the regular heating element actually heats the water.

One other thought came to mind: a small-scale reverse-cycle air conditioner, which has been mentioned by Dan on several occasions. Assuming you could get the dimensions of such a device small enough, you could put a whole lot more power into the water than just the energy from the wall socket.

Comment by Mohonri — February 1, 2008 @ 1:15 am
6. You can see in the picture that the person just out of the shot is holding a temp probe in the water. So I doubt he’d be fooled by simulated boiling.

Comment by Jax184 — February 1, 2008 @ 8:03 am
7. Well, he does mention sonics and heat pumps are great for cheating thermodynamics - maybe he has built a very small thermoacoustic heater. If you squint hard enough that bulb might even be a Helmholtz resonator - although I am not sure that such would be useful in this application.

If the device is a mini-heat pump (rather than an immersion heating element that does not need to be fully submerged) then that is a terrific achievement - whatever the technology.

Comment by aLUNZ — February 1, 2008 @ 1:16 pm
8. Actually, no this is not really that new. This technology and immersion ultrasound horns/plates/cups are already used by many researchers in the fields of chemistry/physics/health. However, it will never be used for this reason, there is no way. Look up Sonochemistry in google. Back to the drawingboard… or your day job. Interesting but bad idea.

Comment by Sonochemist — February 2, 2008 @ 12:07 pm
9. Oh I forgot to add….Depending on the frequency the temperature of the bulk solution and the temperature of the solution during ultrasound could be different. Also, it doesn’t take much energy to get the “boiling” effect you see when ultrasound is induced on an aqueous medium. Less than 10W.


More on the Sonic Boiler
Esa Ruoho (February 3, 2008)

The photos shown to date reminded me of a website I found a couple of years ago describing a similar thing. Here are my notes from that find;

"As a sensitive musician Mr Davey noticed, that there was such a frequency of the motor and propeller buzzing, when the aeroplane cabin and his body were getting into a resonance. At this unique resonance frequency he always was experiencing an influx of heat in his aeroplane cabin. He did not know yet, that in future this phenomenon will be utilised in ultrasonic weapon systems for effective and undetected killing of people. But he decided to test whether the same phenomenon is to appear, if a metal hemisphere which simulates his pilot cabin is submerged in water and is excited into a resonance frequency. So he found two tops from old bicycle bells, joined them together, tuned one of them to 50 Hz frequency, attached electricity wire to each one of them, and thrown them into water. Surprisingly, water started to boil extremely fast. So he made his first heater patent based on this observation. This patent was already registered in 1944. After a hero return from the war, he had a device, which repetitively proved to everyone who measured it, that it has the efficiency decisively exceeding 100%. Realising this, he believed that the world is going to pounce on the opportunity of production and use of this technical miracle. After all, people are full of declarations about apparent saving on energy, resources, about protection of our natural environment, etc. However, the reality turned out to be completely opposite. Immediately after it was experimentally confirmed that the device has unexplainably high efficiency, the heater and the inventor fell into disfavour of various institutions that are interested in selling electricity and that protect the monopoly on electrical power. In the result, this extraordinary invention received an extraordinary treatment! Namely authorities were doing everything in their powers to disallow the production and sale of this heater in New Zealand. One of legal tricks that were used against this heater, was that it was declared officially to be "unsafe to health and life of users". (Please notice that practically every electrical device working on 220 Volts can be declared unsafe, if someone in the position of authority wishes to put it down.) In turn in New Zealand it is impossible to undertake the production and sale of anything, that is not officially approved by the government. In the result, Mr Davey was fighting for almost 50 years to receive a permit for the industrial production of this heater. And during these almost 50 years, the permission was continually refused to him, no matter what research outcomes he submitted to please authorities, and no matter how hard he tried. But it is interesting, that in Australia an electric jug with a heating element of the design very similar to the Davey’s heater was put in mass production (this Australian jug most probably is produced in there still even today). This Australian jug is working on the principle of electrical resistance of water (i.e. not telekinesis as the heater of Mr Davey does). Water that it heats is a resistor, in which heat is generated because of the electric current flows through this water. This Australian jug is exactly the same "dangerous to the health and lives", like the telekinetic heater of Mr Davey. Only that it did not encountered in Australia similar bureaucratic resistance because the energy efficiency of it is "normal". When I met Mr Davey for the first time in 1990, he still was appealing to authorities, and still had a hope to receive a permit for the production of his heater - in spite of these almost 50 years of lost battles with bureaucrats. He was even showing to me a large stock of components he gathered to start a production immediately after the permit is granted to him. However, he gave up the experimental production of research copies of his heater.

The design of the Davey's sonic heater is extremely simple. It actually is composed of two major parts only - see Figure K8 (3) from monograph [1/4]. The most important out of these two parts is a resonating hemispherical bowl (1) made of a sound inducing metal plate. The second part is a buffering hemispherical bowl (2) almost identical in shape to the bowl (1). This second bowl has the radius around 4 mm larger than the resonating hemispherical bowl (1). Both bowls are assembled symmetrically one around the other, means the hemispherical bowl (1) is placed inside of the hemispherical bowl (2). Coin is 32 mm wide = 1.25984 inches / Big bowl approximately 1.75 inches wide and .75 inches thick / Small bowl approximately 1 3/8 inches wide. Of course, apart from these two bowls, the heater also includes a long rod, nuts, washers, and electrical wires. These are to hold it together, to supply electricity to both bowls, and to allow the heater to be submerged into water that it heats. But these other parts are marginal additions only. The major parts are the bowls. During experimental production of this heater, the resonating hemispherical bowl (1) usually is made from an old cover for a bicycle bell. The dimensions of this hemispherical bowl are not important. It is only vital that it falls into a sonic resonance at the frequency of 50 Hertz, and that it has the outer surface which is parallel and equidistant from the external buffering hemispherical bowl (2). To each of these two bowls a different wire of the household electricity supply (i.e. 220 V, 50 Hz) is connected. The heater must be submerged in water that it heat. It brings water to the boiling point extremely fast. More details about the design and operation of this sonic heater is provided in subsection K3.3 from volume 10 of monograph [1/4]. After being constructed, the Davey's telekinetic heater must be "tuned" in two different manners. The first tuning depends on providing the hemispherical bowl (1) with such frequency of the own oscillations, that makes this bowl to resonate acoustically when a sound of the frequency 50 Hertz is emitted nearby. The second tuning of the heater depends on appropriate selecting the distance "L" between both bowls (1) and (2). On this distance depends the formation of the standing wave between both bowls. Thus it decides about the energy efficiency of the entire heater. From the information that the inventor repeated to me, I gather that the measurements carried out by New Zealand scientists suggested that this heater may consume even less than the equivalent for around 5% of the energy that it generates in form of heat. This would indicate, that the electrical efficiency of this heater is around 2000%.


Shocking History of Revolutionary Boilers...

The design of the Davey's telekinetic heater is extremely simple. It actually is composed of only two major parts - see "Fig. #B2" below, or see "Fig. K8 (3)" from monograph [1/4]. The most important out of these two parts is a resonating hemispherical bowl (1) made of a sound inducing metal plate - the inventor always uses stainless steel bowl. The second part is a buffering hemispherical bowl (2) - almost identical in shape to the bowl (1). This second bawl has the radius around 4 mm larger than the resonating hemispherical bowl (1). Both bowls are assembled symmetrically one around the other, means the hemispherical bowl (1) is placed inside of the hemispherical bowl (2). Of course, apart from these two bowls, the heater also includes a long pipe (8) which holds remaining parts together, two nuts (5) and (3) which fix both bowls in their proper locations, a washer (4) which allows to regulate the mutual distance "L" between both bowls, and electrical wires (6) and (7) which supply electricity to both bowls and allow the heater to be submerged into water that it heats. But these other parts are marginal additions only. The major parts are the bowls. During experimental production of this heater, the resonating hemispherical bowl (1) usually is made from an old cover for a bicycle bell. The dimensions of this hemispherical bowl are not important. It is only vital that it falls into a sonic resonance at the frequency of 50 Hertz, and that it has the outer surface which is parallel and equidistant from the external buffering hemispherical bowl (2). To each of these two bowls a different wire of the household electricity supply (i.e. 220 V, 50 Hz) is connected. The heater must be submerged in water that it heats. It brings water to the boiling point extremely fast. More details about the design and operation of this telekinetic heater is provided in subsection K3.3 from volume 10 of monograph [1/4].

Tuning of the heater:

After being constructed, the Davey's telekinetic heater must be "tuned" in two different manners. The first tuning depends on providing the hemispherical bowl (1) with such frequency of the own oscillations, that makes this bowl to resonate acoustically when a sound of the frequency 50 Hertz is emitted nearby. The second tuning of the heater depends on appropriate selecting the distance "L" between both bowls (1) and (2). On this distance depends the formation of the standing wave between both bowls. Thus it decides about the energy efficiency of the entire heater.

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